Fashion in the Early Middle Ages

Every society has a set idea of what is considered acceptable fashion. Some are based more on function and have few set rules on style. Others, like the Victorian period, dictate very strict guide lines and requirements. The early middle ages in western Europe saw the Roman style mix with the up and coming Franks, Gauls, Saxons, and other tribes. The continent's climate was cooler then, so long layers and cloaks were practical. With the addition of Christianity, modesty in clothing also became more important. In Rome the typical fashion was the chiton, for men and women, it was essentially a sleeveless tunic gathered at the waist with a belt. It was worn in varying lengths, but as Rome's power fell, so to did it's hold over fashion. The tunic was still worn, but sleeves were added and the hems of women dropped to below the ankle. 

This simple drapery style held sway with many variants until the 14th century when styles began to change drastically. During this early period with Christian morals in sway, women began covering their hair in veils. For peasants these were simple linen coverings, but for the wealthy headdresses could be quite elaborate. Most clothing were made of linen or wool, but trade with the east, especially after the crusades, saw the import of silk and cotton. Fabric dyes would only be limited by nature and the imagination, so while many modern minds imagine peasants wearing only browns and natural colors, they are more likely to have had more colorful outfits similar to these depicted in the illuminated manuscript of the Duke Jean de Berry of France by the Limbourg brothers in the early 15th century.

The layering of a more elaborate overdress with a simpler underdress allowed for a more elaborate style while serving a very practical purpose. A plain linen underdress could be washed more frequently than embroidered gowns of heavy wool or trimmed fur dresses. In an age where water had to be heated over a fire and then carried by hand, it made sense to be as practical as possible. That does not mean they only bathed once a year. Even after the fall of Rome, their ideas of cleanliness still influenced western society.

The birth of the Italian Renaissance and its ideas on humanism broke some of the Church's power and with new trade and industry a middle class was formed. This class of wealthy tradesmen with aims of nobility could afford to dress like the nobles, so fashion began to be increasingly more intricate and ever changing in an attempt to differentiate the classes. 

For more on historical fashion try these books.

Cosgrave, Bronwyn. The Complete History of Costume and Fashion: From Ancient Egypt to the Present Day. New York: Checkmark Books, 2000.

Payne, Blanche, Geitel Winakor, and Jane Farrell-Beck. The History of Costume. 2nd ed. New York: HarperCollins, 1992.

Piponnier, Françoise, and Perrine Mane. Dress in the Middle Ages. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1997.

Wagner, Eduard, Zoroslava Drobná, and Jan Durdík. Medieval Costume, Armour, and Weapons. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications, 2000.